![]() For normal everyday use I prefer DR200 because it does a great job of capturing the dynamic range of most scenes while not looking flat. I think it works well in low contrast situations. The good news is that there really isn’t an image quality difference between ISO 200 and ISO 800, so there should be no hesitation using ISO 800 if you want a larger dynamic range.Īutumn Forest Light – Bountiful, UT – Fujifilm X100F Astia DR200 – sunlight created deep shadows, but they are handled quite well by the camera.Ī lot of people keep the Dynamic Range set at the default DR100, and that’s fine for them. The reason that the minimum ISO increases is because the camera is increasing the luminosity in the files (except for the highlights) to an equivalent of that ISO. There is also an option to let the camera auto-decide which Dynamic Range setting to use. The third option is Dynamic Range 400 (DR400), and if it is selected the minimum ISO is 800. Dynamic Range 200 (DR200) is next, and if it is selected the minimum ISO is 400 (instead of ISO 200). This is the standard Dynamic Range option and it cannot be turned off (except by selected extended ISO 100). The default setting is Dynamic Range 100 (DR100). They allow you to retain shadow details and prevent clipped highlights. ![]() The Dynamic Range settings don’t mean anything to RAW files, but they have a big effect on JPEGs. This is also why some people claim that Fujifilm “cheats” with their ISOs. ![]() The real base ISO on the sensor is ISO 100 (which is available as an “extended ISO”), but the camera applies a curve in software to pull more details out of the shadows, essentially underexposing the scene and then increasing the luminosity of everything (except the highlights) to maximize the dynamic range. Have you ever wondered why base ISO on Fujifilm X cameras is ISO 200? It’s actually a software trick. ![]() That’s great for RAW shooters, but what about those who prefer JPEG? Fujifilm built into their cameras the Dynamic Range settings, which allows the benefits of the ISO-less sensor to be applied to JPEGs. Vibrant Forest – Bountiful, UT – Fujifilm X100F Velvia DR200 – contrast from back-lit trees are handled well, with shadows that are strong but not devoid of details. It’s best to underexpose to protect the highlights and increase the luminosity in post. The highlights can clip rather sharply and there isn’t a lot of room for error, but you have tons of room in the shadows. What this means is that there are a lot of details that can be pulled out of the shadows of your RAW files. You are completely unaware, and it is automatically done, even to RAW files. In other words, the camera is actually capturing every shot at base ISO and increasing the brightness after the exposure for whatever ISO was selected. You’ll notice that the the two files now look the same. You can try this at home by capturing an exposure at ISO 6400 and a RAW exposure at ISO 200 underexposed by five stops, then brighten the underexposed file in software to the correct exposure. Thus, the “ISO-less” sensor was born.Īn ISO-less sensor, which modern Sony-made sensors are, increases ISO by simply increasing the luminosity levels with software. At some point Sony figured out that doing so was unnecessary, that the camera, even in very dark areas, was recording a lot of information. Once upon a time digital camera sensors would increase the energy pumped into them to make the photosites more sensitive to light in order to increase ISO. To begin with, it’s important to understand that the X-Trans sensors found inside Fujifilm cameras are actually made by Sony. Let’s explore what these setting are and what it means for your pictures. Autumn At Mill Creek – Bountiful, UT – FujiFilm X100F Astia DR200 – captured on a sunny afternoon with strong highlights and deep shadows.įujifilm X cameras, including the X100F that I own, have three Dynamic Range settings: DR100, DR200 and DR400.
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